Category Archives: Profiles

VASELINE – hate it, love it

Time for another product information-post, Vaseline: The chemical name of Petroleum jelly is petrolatum, Vaseline is a trademark, though Vaseline is pure Petroleum jelly. It is a bi-product from the petro-chemical industry. Other bi-products are: wax, kerosene, diesel, tar, mineral oil, bitumen, roofing shingles, asphalt. For the history of Vaseline look here. (Quite interesting).

(The pic below is from this blog, read it, very funny about Vaseline in hair)

For a long time Vaseline was considered to be a miracle product for healing burns and softening skin. Aside from that, it is extremely cheap, stable and emulsifying. To this day Petroleum jelly and mineral oil is used in many creams and lotions, though research has shown that it, in fact, does nothing for the skin. The healing properties Vaseline was thought to have are due to its “sealing effect on cuts and burns, which inhibits germs from getting into the wound and keeps the injured area supple by preventing the skin’s moisture from evaporating”. (Wikipedia) In other words; Vaseline is like a plastic coating that hinders the skin’s natural secreting action, making it turn dry and brittle over time, creating what’s popularly known as Vaseline-dependency.

I would never, ever use Petroleum jelly in any formulations for skin-care. That said, I do use Vaseline (drum-roll and a shocked intake of breath) in some cases/products. The plastic-coating-property is very useful when you need something protective that the skin will not absorb:

  •  When infection eats away the tissue (necrosis). The infected tissue needs to be cut away, leaving deep open wounds. These wounds tend to heal first on the surface, leaving bacteria to fester in the wound. Such wounds need to be kept open and clean so they heal from the inside out. The best way to do this is by inserting a compress or tampon steeped in petroleum jelly. It doesn’t stick to the skin-tissue so it’s easily removed without causing tearing. The Vaseline can then be loaded with healing agents that will do the business.
  • Mud-fever on horses. Mud-fever can turn septic quickly and in very bad cases the infection spreads up the leg, under the skin, causing big patches of skin and fur to fall off, leaving heavily infected and raw patches. Here Vaseline rules! It protects the area, keeping it soft; the “spreadable plastic” effect. Again, I load the Vaseline with healing agents. If you catch the mud-fever at an early stage, healing is rapid. Vaseline is perfect because it creates an inert barrier to humidity and dirt in a way that no bandaging can do.

So how is Vaseline to work with? Sort of disgusting, to be honest. It is fatty but not in the same as vegetable fats, more like some kind of plastic goo that covers everything with a greasy film. It’s rather heavy and compact, making it hard to stir. I don’t melt it, I work it in its raw state. But no matter what you put in it, be it water- or fat-soluble, Vaseline just swallows it without ever separating – amazing. The more fats that are blended into the Vaseline, the softer it gets, but it still leaves that greasy, gooey film.

Last, but not least, the question of Petroleum Jelly being from an unsustainable source: It is a bi-product which means that as long as you put gas in your car, heat your house with oil, use plastic, asphalt and a bunch of other things that we consider necessary, Petroleum Jelly will be around, and as long as this is the case,  the argument is not really valid, is it?

SHEABUTTER or BEURRE KARITÉ

Latin name: Butyrospermum parkii

The name Shea comes from s’i – the tree’s name in Mali. The Latin name comes from the explorer Mungo Park who introduced it to Europe.

The shea-tree grows in the dry savannahs of Africa. It grows to a height of about 20 meter and starts bearing fruit after 8-12 years, though it reaches full producing capacity only after 40 years after which it can bear fruit for over 200 years. Flowering season is January/February and the fruit ripens between May and August. The fruits are the size of large plums. A “good” tree can yield up to 80 kg of nuts/year but normally a tree produces about 20 kg of fruit, giving 1.5 kg of butter. 100 kg of fruit will yield about 8 kg of butter.

Process: The  fruit falls as it ripens and is collected – traditionally by women and children. The outer shell is then crushed and removed, revealing another, inner, shell that is removed by boiling or roasting. Inside is the nut that is used. After drying, the nut is crushed to release the butter. This method of extraction leaves the butter intact but gives a lower yield and is therefore more expensive. Another process is by using a hexane solvent extraction which gives a higher yield. The butter is also made into an oil by reducing the amount of stearic acid. The cheaper, refined, variety is widely used by the chocolate industry and can also be found in margarine and other foods. Shea-butter is extensively used by the cosmetic industry and can be found in many creams, lotions and emollients.

The butter has been used for thousands of years by the Africans as food oil, lamp oil, protective salve and for soap. Therapeutically it has been used to treat sprains, muscular pain, and as an anti-inflammatory. It has also traditionally been used as a protective agent for skin and hair.

USES:

  • Shea butter contains cinnamic acids which  has sun-screening properties, protecting the skin against UV-rays.
  • Anti-inflammatory properties help with cracks, skin-ulcers and fissures.
  • prevention of stretch-marks by making the skin supple.
  • Emollient on dry skin, hair and lips. Makes the skin soft and supple.
  • For sprains, aches and rheumatism.
  • Acne, itchiness, eczema, irritated skin, scars.

Shea butter is white to creamy in color. It is readily absorbed by the skin without leaving a greasy residue, and the skin will feel softer after use. Being very mild, it is tolerated by most people. The butter is stable, giving it a shelf-life of about 2 years if stored cool and dark. It melts at a temperature of 35-40 degrees celsius.

Chemical profile:

  • Oleic acid, 40-45%
  • Stearic acid 30-45%
  • Linoleic acid 3-9%
  • Palmitic acid 3-5%

MAY CHANG

Time for a profile again; this is a wonderful, versatile oil with a lovely scent. It’s attractive to most people and one of those scents that is always appreciated when it comes to scenting spaces.

May Chang, Litsea (Litsea cubeba). Synonyms: tropical verbena, yunnan verveine. These names are a bit misleading, since it is not at all related to Lemon verbena (Aloysia triphylla). It belongs to the same family as the rosewood and cinnamon tree. Litsea is a small tropical tree with lemony-scented leaves and flowers. It produces little fruits shaped like peppers which gives the name cubeba. The tree is native to Asia, especially China where it is often planted as a wind breaker. China is the main producer, but it is also cultivated  in Taiwan and Japan. The oil was introduced to the West as late as in the mid-fifties.

The oil is steam-distilled from the fruits, the yield is high – the fruits contain 3-5% essential oil. On Java, Indonesia, small quantities of oil is distilled from the leaves, though it is considered inferior since there is less citral in it. (I would love to get my hands on some of that oil, since, in aromatherapy, we are not looking at isolation but rather wholeness, it would have different therapeutic properties ) The main component of the fruit-oil is citral, up to 85%. The scent of Litsea is sweet-lemony, fresh and fruity. It is reminiscent of lemongrass but lighter and sweeter without the sharpness and tenacity of lemongrass.

The major use of the oil is for the isolation of citral which is used for flavor and fragrance. The chemical industry uses it as a raw material for the synthesis of vitamin A and also converts it into a violet-like scent. International standards set the minimum citral-content at 74% for Litsea, the same as for Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) and both these oils are described in trade terms as “75 percent”.

Traditional uses in China are: indigestion, lower back pain, chills, headaches and travel sickness.

Essential oil of Litsea cubeba is anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory, antidepressant, carminative, sedative and calming. It is also used as an insect-repellent, though I find Citronella (Cymbogogon nardus) to be more efficient.

USES:

  • SKIN: Its antimicrobial properties make it excellent for oily skin and acne. It is astringent and gently cooling on the skin and makes a good tonic.
  • RESPIRATORY: Tonic. Has been used as a broncho-dilator and may be helpful with bronchitis and asthma. (In the case of asthma, I believe part of its usefulness is the calming and relaxing effect of the oil.)
  • HEART: Tonic to the heart; much research is being done in China on disease-prevention and cure of heart-problems. Recent research has shown Litsea’s ability to reduce arrhythmias in comparison with propranolol, a beta-blocker, antihypertensive and anti-angina drug. (Zhong Xi Yi Jie He Za Zhi. 1991 Aug;11(8):509-12.) Personal note: This ability might be of great help in stress-relief, especially when stress causes irregular heart-beat.
  • DIGESTIVE: Flatulence, indigestion and poor appetite.
  • NERVOUS SYSTEM: Calming and antidepressant. Useful for nervousness and depression as the oil is softly uplifting and strengthening (tonic). Use it together with Lavender (Lavandula augustifolia) and/or Roman Chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile) for sleeping disorders. This blend is deeply relaxing.

More: As a sanitary air-freshener when there is disease. Brilliant to use during those months of the year when colds and flu’s set in.

Personal experience: I have found Litsea to be one of the few oils that most everybody likes. I have used it successfully on clients with racing heart-problems from stress and for people suffering from anorexia.

Litsea can cause sensitisation in some individuals. Do not use neat on skin.

 

MINERAL OIL

One of the most controversial substances in skin-care is mineral oil. Mineral oil is derived from the petroleum industry, it is one of many substances derived from crude oil that is pumped up from the bowels of the earth. Crude oil is, by definition, a natural product since it is created by the earth itself as opposed to man-made, it is even an organic product…crude oil, that is. (See earlier posts on natural substances under skin-care)

Crude oil in its natural state can’t be used so it is refined by chemical and physical processes. By fractionating the crude oil with different temperatures a variety of substances are obtained:

  • 25-100 degrees celsius; propane and gasoline
  • 100-180 degrees celsius; heavy gasoline
  • 160-250 degrees celsius; paraffin
  • 220-350 degrees celsius; diesel
  • 360-400 degrees celsius; heating oil and lubricating oil
  • >400 degrees celsius; asphalt, tar and paraffin oil

From the paraffin oil other substances are derived such as: paraffin oil, paraffin, paraffin-wax in different levels of firmness; vaseline is a half-firm paraffin-wax. Other products that originates from some of these fractions are: plastic, solvents, emulsifiers, medicine, cloth, aromatic substances for food and perfume and much more.

(this information is taken from the book “Guldet från växterna” by Finn Andersen.)

Many now banned substances in skin-care come from the petroleum-industry and have been found to be hazardous to humans. Everybody agrees that they should be banned and laws have been passed to give more insight in what goes into skin-care. (see earlier posts under skin-care) But the controversial mineral oil ( vaseline, paraffine) is still on the market… There are 2 schools of thought; pro and anti:

PRO mineral oil:

  • Cheap (about 1 us dollar/kg)
  • Stable – will not go bad…ever…
  • Protective layer
  • Inert
  • Lubricating

ANTI mineral oil:

  • Our bodies do not recognize it
  • Clog the pores
  • Stops skin-breathing and hinders elimination of waste-products through skin
  • Diminishes natural sebum-production in skin


There is research that show negative effects of mineral oil. see here and here There is also research showing it to be non-toxic at normal doses for most people. When a substance is so easily acquired (goes automatically when fractionating all the other stuff) at such a low cost, never goes bad and can do thousands of different things…I do not trust the pro that much…of course industry wants to keep this very versatile product on the market… It’s all about the money.

Mineral oil is used widely as a laxative and there have been reports of negative side-effects. Castor oil (Ricinus communis) is a much better alternative; affordable, natural and works with the body.

And the oilspills? Nature dies, people get sick… For more info on health hazards from crude oil look here, where it actually says:

“Although a variety of hydrocarbon products produced from petroleum have specific toxic effects, the toxicity of crude light petroleum itself to humans is relatively low. (Stellman 2007) This may be due, in part, to the lower concentrations of individual fractions in crude oil as compared to the higher concentrations expected in refined products.”


Personal experience:

Vaseline once had a publicity stating; “softer skin in 8 days or your money back“. There is no problem making this statement; vaseline (mineral oils) will give you softer skin in 8 days. The problem is that skin-conditions cannot change that fast, it is only a cosmetic and superficial change; it takes 28 days for a new-born skin-cell to reach the surface, and only then will you see any kind of result.

I never ever use mineral oils for skin-care or lip-balm or anything to do with my skin-health. I refused all store-bought baby-products for my children because of the mineral-oil which is used in almost all baby-products.

I have used vaseline in other ways with brilliant results…it’s like liquid plastic and it keeps the area soft:

  • Horses: For mudfever (I think it’s called in English) when the leg above the hoof gets infected because of humidity. The condition is not easily treated and can turn very serious. I mix essential oil and other active substances in vaseline. The vaseline works as an efficient protector against humidity and the active substances are released into the wound (skin).
  • Necrosis; where infection eats away the skin and creates craters. To ensure healing from within the crater I stuff compresses with essential oil and vaseline in the wound before dressing it. The vaseline stops the compress from getting stuck in the wound and the active substances work their healing on a deep level in the crater. Without the compress in the crater, risk is superficial healing in the top skin-layers, leaving bacteria to grow beneath.

At the end of the day; do we want to use something that comes from such a horrible industry; 1)it is non-renewable and nobody knows what happens to the planet when we empty her bowels. 2) Look what it does to nature when there are spills. This alone is enough for me to choose other options, even if they may be costlier.

AVOCADO AND OLIVE-OIL

There are 2 oils that are pressed from the fruit-pulp rather than from the nut or seed:

Avocado Oil (Persea gratissima / P. americana): The fresh, oily pulp of the fruit is pressed or centrifuged to yield its oil, after which it is filtered. The oil is green due to its chlorophyll content. The freshly pressed oil degrades quickly when exposes to sunlight, making the oil turn brown – at this point it is off and should not be used. The scent is strong and fruity, when it starts to go off, the scent becomes earthy-moldy. Most avocado-oil is refined to make it more stable, it then has a light yellow color and hardly any scent. Sometimes a coloring agent is added to create the green color and raise the price. Make sure you get your oil from a reputed distributor. Store cool and dark. The oil hardens when cold but goes soft in room-temperature.

Avocado oil is rich in vitamins – especially vitamin D and E. It also contains different sterols that can have a healing effect on various skin-problems. Avocado oil is softening, protecting and cell-regenerating for the skin and absorbed rather easily. Use it on dry, damaged and mature skin.

Olive Oil (Olea europea): . When the fruits are stored free radicals are formed which impairs the quality. Therefor the  fruits need to be pressed immediately after harvest. By carefully cold-pressing the whole fruit, including the skin, the extra virgin oil is obtained. Next quality-level is Virgin fine. These are the oils that should be used both for culinary and cosmetic purposes. The oil is green due to its chlorophyll content and it has a strong, characteristic scent of olives. Olive oil is stable and will keep even in room-temperature. When stored cool (10 degrees celsius or colder) the oil will go cloudy and at colder temperatures it will harden.

Olive oil is mainly used for culinary use and this is how we best receive its health benefits. Use it for cooking, on salads, bread, vegetables… A true virgin oil has a wonderful taste, I don’t use that for cooking since it destroys the scent/taste. Rather I use a lesser degree for cooking and save the glorious virgin for use on salads, bread, vegetables etc.

For cosmetic use it is a bit heavy and it has a strong scent. That said, it is anti-inflammatory and can be used for eczema, dermatitis, psoriasis, sunburn and insect-bites. Use with chapped, dry skin and brittle nails. Blend with lighter vegetable oils for skin-care.

CHAMOMILE

There are mainly 2 different chamomiles used in aromatherapy: German or “blue” chamomile and Roman chamomile.

German chamomile (Matricaria recutita): An annual aromatic plant, up to 60 cm high. It has a branching stem, feathery leaves and simple white flowers with a yellow center. It is native to Europe, but is now naturalized in North America and Australia. It is mainly cultivated in Hungary and eastern Europe where most of the oil is produced. All over Europe it can be found growing along fields and road-sides. The name “German” comes from earlier days when Germany was its main producer. It is often called Blue chamomile thanks to its deep blue-green color due to the chemical chamazulen. Chamazulen is not present in the fresh flower, it is only produced during the distillation process. The oil comes from steam-distillation of the flower heads.

It has a long tradition as a medicinal herb for all kinds of tension and for its anti-inflammatory properties. Usually it has been used in the form of tea or infusion. The scent is herbaceous with a fruity tinge.

USES:

  • SKIN: All kinds of inflammation; Acne, boils, dermatitis, eczema, inflammations, insect bites.
  • MUSCLE: Anti-inflammatory; rheumatism, inflamed joints, aches and pains, neuralgia, fibromyalgia.
  • EMOTION: Calming and relaxing to the nervous system; Headaches, insomnia, nervous tension, stress.
  • STOMACH: Anti-inflammatory and calming; Colic, indigestion and nausea. (Massage, tea & infusion)

This is a safe oil to use for children, elderly and weak individuals. Remember to keep the dosage down. The oil will stain both skin and materials.

Roman Chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile): A small perennial plant, up to 25 cm high with a branched hairy stem, feathery leaves and white flowers with yellow centers, the flowers are larger than those of German chamomile. The whole plant spreads in a creeping manner and has an apple-like scent. It is native to southern and western Europe, now naturalized in North America. It is cultivated in England, Belgium, Hungary, USA, Italy and France. The oil comes from steam-distillation of the flower heads, the scent is warm, sweet and herbaceous.

It has been used as a medicinal plant for at least 2000 years, especially in the Mediterranean area. The ancient Egyptians made note of it, as did the Romans. The ancient Greeks called it earth-apple (kamai – earth +melon – apple) which later turned into chamameleum.

USES:

It is used much in the same way as German chamomile, being calming, anti-inflammatory, hypnotic and a nerve sedative. The roman chamomile has a different, more profound calming action than the German C. According to Dr’s Franchomme & Penoel, Roman chamomile is useful as a calming agent before operations.

This oil is safe to use for children, elderly and weak individuals. Remember; lower dosage. Excellent oil for babies suffering from colic.

Experience: I have had great use of Roman chamomile for my children when they have suffered from stomach-ache or anxiety. Colic: Blend 1 drop in 5ml vegetable oil, rub on tummy (clockwise) cover with a warming pad, lay against shoulder and rock baby gently. The oil, soothing motion and the massage that is given by the rubbing against the shoulder usually helps baby to calm down.

German chamomile is brilliant as an anti-inflammatory for most skin-problems, even eczema. Just pay attention to dosage. I find the scent reviving though calming. I have used it with great success for horses; both emotionally and as a healing agent for wounds.

CYPRESS

For the past week or so this oil has been popping up so now you will have its profile:

Cypress (Cupressus sempervirens) is a tall evergreen tree with slender branches and a conical shape. It carries small flowers and round cones or nuts. It has a long history of medicinal use and is native to the eastern mediterranean area where it grows wild. Most cultivation is done in France, Spain and Morocco. It has given its name to the island of Cyprus.

The name sempervirens means ever green – eternal life – and the tree is often planted in cemeteries. The Egyptians and Romans dedicated the tree to the gods of death and afterlife as it was believed to help the transition of the soul, and coffins were manufactured from the wood. Legend has it that the cross of Christ was made of cypress.

Medicinally it was used by ancient civilizations as a purifying incense, and still is in Tibet. It was known to benefit the urinary system, being warming and drying in nature. The Chinese use the nuts as a nutritious food to help the liver.

The essential oil comes from distilling the needles and twigs. The scent is smoky, green, woody and balsamic.

Uses:

  • Skin: Oily skin and hair. Bleeding gums. Excessive perspiration.
  • Circulation: It is decongestant and astringent and can help with cellulite, varicose veins and hemorrhoids. Use it for oedema (water-retention) and poor circulation.
  • Muscles: Cramps, rheumatism, arthritis. Can help bring down swelling.
  • Respiratory: Coughs and bronchitis.
  • Helpful for menopausal problems. (Transition)
  • Nervous system: Weakness, irritation, stress, anxiety and nervous tension.
  • Emotional: As a help in transitions; It gives us stability to handle death, loss, change and separation. The deeply stabilizing emotional properties of cypress can be of help when there is insecurity and fear.

Experience: When I have gone through big changes in life I have had much use of this oil to keep me “on track”. Changes always involve fear and/or insecurities which can become debilitating unless addressed. It has helped me to stay focused and calm when I feel that I am in the middle of turbulence. The warming nature of the oil gives a feeling of safety and the stimulating properties help me to go forward.

ANGELICA ARCHANGELICA

Time for an essential oil profile:

Angelica (Angelica archangelica) The name means “angelic archangel” and this is a good representation of this oil. It has a glorious scent that unites high and low. Angelica has a long tradition as a medicinal and flavor enhancer in indigenous cultures such as the Same-culture in northern Scandinavia.

The plant is large and tall with clusters of small white flowers and large roots. Angelica is biennial but always returns thanks to its strong self-sowing ability. The first year only the large, fern-like, serrated leaves grow. In the second year it grows to a height of 2 meters and flowers are produced. The stem is thick and hollow and can be made into a flute. It is native to Europe and Siberia but is now grown worldwide. The whole plant is aromatic but only the roots and seeds are steam-distilled for essential oil. Personally, I prefer the oil from the roots.

The stems and seeds are used in confectionery,  flavoring and the preparation of liqueurs such as Benedictine and Chartreuse. The whole herb is used medicinally.

The scent is green, herbaceous and slightly earthy with a peppery note. With time the scent deepens and take on a slightly musky character. Interestingly enough, the scent of Angelica is dual: light and heavy, spicy and musky. It is full-bodied and I believe the way we perceive the scent is depending on what we need from the oil at the moment. The duality of Angelica can also be seen in its properties; it is a stimulant  in low doses and sedative in higher doses.

Uses:

  • Carminative for the digestive system.
  • Dull and congested skin.
  • Detoxifying; accumulation of toxins, arthritis, rheumatism and water retention.
  • Strengthens the immune-system.
  • Emotional: Anxiety, tension, stress, fatigue.
  • Spiritually: Focus, creativity and inner vision. It connects the divine with the earth; spiritual with physical. In healing it can be used as a “door-opener” before actual treatment.

Safety precautions: Angelica is photosensitizing, meaning that it makes the skin more responsive to light. When using Angelica stay out of the sun and sunbeds for at least 8 hours after application to skin. If exposed to sunlight, photosensitizing oils can increase the risk for sunburn and discoloration. Do not use during pregnancy.

An experience: One day I had just gotten a new bottle of Angelica essential oil and I put a couple of drops on my necklace (see aromatic jewelery). Later in the day I had a long drive and after an hour I was getting increasingly light-headed and “visionary” which is not the ideal condition for driving. It became so strong that I had to stop and get out of the car. Once in the fresh air, my head cleared and I realized my state was because of inhaling the Angelica-oil.

I use the oil for visionary meditations where it is very useful for the clarity it brings, but I never again use it while driving or “handling heavy machinery”. Focus does not always mean sharp.