Category Archives: Product information

RESTRICTING REGULATIONS and oranges

How far can regulations reach, where is reasonable? There are bodies to regulate more or less anything in the name of safety. For your safety, Folks. What starts out as a good idea in order to regulate toxic substances seem to have accelerated into the idea that everything is toxic.

Just to give you an idea; limonene, found in citrus-fruits, has been judged a skin irritant by a “body”. Now here is reality:

  • The hazardous substance occurs when limonene oxidizes (the aging process), oxidized limonene is an irritant.
  • Limonene is found in a majority of house-hold products and is considered safe. There are no restrictions.
  • Limonene is found in many food-stuffs and drinks, including babyfoods, it’s an excellent taste enhancer.
  • Every time you handle a citrus-fruit – and especially when you peel it – you get rather large amounts of limonene on your skin.

All these facts aside, “people” are afraid of limonene :-) and it has been branded a skin-hazard not to be used. So if this is the case, why are we allowed to eat oranges?

VASELINE – hate it, love it

Time for another product information-post, Vaseline: The chemical name of Petroleum jelly is petrolatum, Vaseline is a trademark, though Vaseline is pure Petroleum jelly. It is a bi-product from the petro-chemical industry. Other bi-products are: wax, kerosene, diesel, tar, mineral oil, bitumen, roofing shingles, asphalt. For the history of Vaseline look here. (Quite interesting).

(The pic below is from this blog, read it, very funny about Vaseline in hair)

For a long time Vaseline was considered to be a miracle product for healing burns and softening skin. Aside from that, it is extremely cheap, stable and emulsifying. To this day Petroleum jelly and mineral oil is used in many creams and lotions, though research has shown that it, in fact, does nothing for the skin. The healing properties Vaseline was thought to have are due to its “sealing effect on cuts and burns, which inhibits germs from getting into the wound and keeps the injured area supple by preventing the skin’s moisture from evaporating”. (Wikipedia) In other words; Vaseline is like a plastic coating that hinders the skin’s natural secreting action, making it turn dry and brittle over time, creating what’s popularly known as Vaseline-dependency.

I would never, ever use Petroleum jelly in any formulations for skin-care. That said, I do use Vaseline (drum-roll and a shocked intake of breath) in some cases/products. The plastic-coating-property is very useful when you need something protective that the skin will not absorb:

  •  When infection eats away the tissue (necrosis). The infected tissue needs to be cut away, leaving deep open wounds. These wounds tend to heal first on the surface, leaving bacteria to fester in the wound. Such wounds need to be kept open and clean so they heal from the inside out. The best way to do this is by inserting a compress or tampon steeped in petroleum jelly. It doesn’t stick to the skin-tissue so it’s easily removed without causing tearing. The Vaseline can then be loaded with healing agents that will do the business.
  • Mud-fever on horses. Mud-fever can turn septic quickly and in very bad cases the infection spreads up the leg, under the skin, causing big patches of skin and fur to fall off, leaving heavily infected and raw patches. Here Vaseline rules! It protects the area, keeping it soft; the “spreadable plastic” effect. Again, I load the Vaseline with healing agents. If you catch the mud-fever at an early stage, healing is rapid. Vaseline is perfect because it creates an inert barrier to humidity and dirt in a way that no bandaging can do.

So how is Vaseline to work with? Sort of disgusting, to be honest. It is fatty but not in the same as vegetable fats, more like some kind of plastic goo that covers everything with a greasy film. It’s rather heavy and compact, making it hard to stir. I don’t melt it, I work it in its raw state. But no matter what you put in it, be it water- or fat-soluble, Vaseline just swallows it without ever separating – amazing. The more fats that are blended into the Vaseline, the softer it gets, but it still leaves that greasy, gooey film.

Last, but not least, the question of Petroleum Jelly being from an unsustainable source: It is a bi-product which means that as long as you put gas in your car, heat your house with oil, use plastic, asphalt and a bunch of other things that we consider necessary, Petroleum Jelly will be around, and as long as this is the case,  the argument is not really valid, is it?

MACERATION or HERBAL OIL

There are many ways of using herbs; fresh, dried, boiled (tisane), distilled (essential oil), in alcohol (tincture) and in vegetable oil (maceration/herbal oil). Herbs are full of active chemicals that can be drawn out in different solvents such as alcohol, vegetable oil or glycerine. A maceration or herbal oil is when vegetable oil is used (oil extraction). Some well-known macerations are easily found in the market-place, such as Arnica (Arnica montana), Marigold (Calendula officinalis) and St Johns wort (Hypericum perforatum), but there are many others. Extracting herbs in oil is a simple process that easily can be done at home.

As always, quality plays a great role in the final product; you need to use the very best herbs and vegetable oil. One of the easiest vegetable oils to find for the purpose is organic sunflower oil which is most often used. The finished herbal oil has its own specific properties and in ancient time they were used as medicines and unguents for perfumery. The macerated oils carry some color from the plant, St Johns wort is red, and have their specific therapeutic properties.

Macerations can be used in all kind of products that are fatty; creams, oils, liniments and can help with a wide variety of problems; muscular aches, sprains, cramps, depression and skin-problems. Some are anti-inflammatory and promote wound healing. Since they are active substances, use 5-30% in a blend for desired effect. In large dosages they can be slightly drying or even irritating to the skin. Macerations are excellent to use for people who are very sensitive to essential oils as they are milder in their action on the skin.

I have made many macerations through the years, trying different plants and vegetable oils. I found Jojoba oil to be excellent for flowers, now Jojoba has become so expensive it’s not really possible anymore, so I use Sunflower oil. I have used Olive oil for St Johns Wort since there is a true affinity between them. Today I find it easier to buy the macerations I use the most; arnica, calendula, hypericum, comfrey and some others. But there is one maceration I make every year for my own luxury, and that is with roses. In the early days I always used Jojoba for the roses but today I use a very fine organic cold pressed sunflower oil. It gives me a beautiful oil that I use in my facial products. The scent is rather faint and a bit greenish, the texture is absolutely wonderful. I use this in a dosage of 20% in any given product.

What is interesting about macerations is the fact that they don’t go rancid sitting in the sun. Normally sun, heat and light is the worst environment for a vegetable oil. I believe that the active substances in herbs and plants actually help to conserve the vegetable oil. Their shelf-life depends on what vegetable oil was used and how it is stored. Better to make smaller quantities so they are used up during the season and more can be made the next year. In this way you also find your favorites and you learn to “better” the process each time.

HOW-TO:

Pick your chosen herb at the right time of day and season and fill a glass jar, cover the herbs with cold-pressed organic vegetable oil, cover and set in the sun. The jar should be turned regularly and left in the sun for 2-3 weeks. When macerating flowers you need to exchange the flowers in your jar every so often, usually 1-2 times/week, depending on what flower you are using. For roses I exchange the petals every 3 days. Once the oil is saturated you strain, filter and bottle it. Store in a cool and dark place.

SPIKENARD

Spikenard or Narde (Nardostachys jatamansi / N. grandiflora): It belongs to the Valerian family and has similar properties as it’s cousin Valerian (Valeriana officinalis). A flowering plant that grows to a height of about 1 meter, the rhizomes are distilled to produce the essential oil. It is native to the Himalayas; China, northern India and Nepal, mostly cultivated in Nepal and India. The best quality oil comes from Nepal. Spikenard is a slightly viscous, greenish-brown oil, darkening with age. The scent is deep and fresh, reminiscent of earth after rain, with a hint of fruity overtones.

History: Nard was (and is) used in the Indian tradition of Ayur veda. In ancient Egypt it was a luxury perfume and upon investigating the tomb of Tutankhamun in 1926, small alabaster vessels were found with a solidified, scented unguent (ointment, solid perfume) which turned out to be perfumed with spikenard and frankincense. Spikenard was also one of the ingredients in the ancient Egyptian perfume “Kyphi” that was burned at dusk to make sure the life-giving sun would return the next day. It was an important part of the Hebrew traditions where it was a component of the sacred incense, HaKetoret, wich was burned in the Jewish temple of Jerusalem. Spikenard in Hebrew is Nard and translates as Light. Most people recognize the name due to its mention in the bible (Song of Solomon, Matthew 26:6-13, Mark 14:3-9). Spikenard was the oil used by Mary Magdalene to anoint the feet of Jesus at the last supper (John 12:1-10). At the time, spikenard was extremely costly and Judas Iscariot was outraged by the fact that it was used, seeing as the amount used was worth about a year’s wages for an ordinary working man. The Greek word for Spikenard means genuine and pure.

With such an illustrious history from ancient times, Spikenard is bound to tickle the imagination. Many believe that it’s claim to fame is due to the high cost it carried, but spikenard was not the only costly scent at the time; myrrh and  frankincense  were also extremely costly – even more so than gold. On researching the oil I find a red thread which points to the spiritual properties of the scent; Spikenard connects us to the divine.

USES:

  • SKIN: Balancing, regenerating and healing. Mature skin, psoriasis (1% blend), allergies, itching, skin-problems. Healthy skin maintenance.
  • DIGESTIVE SYSTEM: Antispasmodic and digestive: nausea, constipation, colic and cramps.
  • CIRCULATION: Harmonizes & stimulates circulation. Haemorrhoids, varicose veins. Regulates heartbeat.
  • NERVOUS SYSTEM & EMOTIONAL: Balancing, calming, grounding, harmonizing: Insomnia, migraine, stress, nervous tension, insecurity, anxiety. Deep emotional wounds. Can be of use in working through addictions, especially drugs.

Spikenard works on the solar plexus in a deeply calming manner. It is liberating and profoundly soothing. It releases emotional tension and being  at the same time grounding and opening it bring us in touch with our inner spirituality.

Personal: The word that comes to me is surrender. Spikenard brings us to a place of such peace and tranquility, enveloping us in a deep sense of safety. In this place we can allow ourselves to let go of emotional wounds, fears and insecurities. It connects us to the divinity within and lessens the stresses of the outside world. It shows us the way to heal from within. I mainly use this beautiful oil for emotional work. Its wonderful skin-care properties make it easy to incorporate as a releasing agent in the every-day life. Used as a facial oil you have the healing emotional benefits as well as excellent skin-care.

This oil resonates deeply within me. The first time I met Spikenard I was in the midst of a tremendously painful and difficult period of my life. It transported me to a place of such calm serenity, that all the difficulties fell away and I could see – for the first time -  solutions and possibilities. This moment brought me forever out of the worst trauma of my life. Till this day Spikenard is my doorway to assurance, peace and spirituality. It is probably the one oil I would always carry.

Considered a safe oil to use. As it has a ovary-stimulating action, I avoid using it during pregnancy. Spikenard is sometimes used in natural perfumery as a fixative.


SHEABUTTER or BEURRE KARITÉ

Latin name: Butyrospermum parkii

The name Shea comes from s’i – the tree’s name in Mali. The Latin name comes from the explorer Mungo Park who introduced it to Europe.

The shea-tree grows in the dry savannahs of Africa. It grows to a height of about 20 meter and starts bearing fruit after 8-12 years, though it reaches full producing capacity only after 40 years after which it can bear fruit for over 200 years. Flowering season is January/February and the fruit ripens between May and August. The fruits are the size of large plums. A “good” tree can yield up to 80 kg of nuts/year but normally a tree produces about 20 kg of fruit, giving 1.5 kg of butter. 100 kg of fruit will yield about 8 kg of butter.

Process: The  fruit falls as it ripens and is collected – traditionally by women and children. The outer shell is then crushed and removed, revealing another, inner, shell that is removed by boiling or roasting. Inside is the nut that is used. After drying, the nut is crushed to release the butter. This method of extraction leaves the butter intact but gives a lower yield and is therefore more expensive. Another process is by using a hexane solvent extraction which gives a higher yield. The butter is also made into an oil by reducing the amount of stearic acid. The cheaper, refined, variety is widely used by the chocolate industry and can also be found in margarine and other foods. Shea-butter is extensively used by the cosmetic industry and can be found in many creams, lotions and emollients.

The butter has been used for thousands of years by the Africans as food oil, lamp oil, protective salve and for soap. Therapeutically it has been used to treat sprains, muscular pain, and as an anti-inflammatory. It has also traditionally been used as a protective agent for skin and hair.

USES:

  • Shea butter contains cinnamic acids which  has sun-screening properties, protecting the skin against UV-rays.
  • Anti-inflammatory properties help with cracks, skin-ulcers and fissures.
  • prevention of stretch-marks by making the skin supple.
  • Emollient on dry skin, hair and lips. Makes the skin soft and supple.
  • For sprains, aches and rheumatism.
  • Acne, itchiness, eczema, irritated skin, scars.

Shea butter is white to creamy in color. It is readily absorbed by the skin without leaving a greasy residue, and the skin will feel softer after use. Being very mild, it is tolerated by most people. The butter is stable, giving it a shelf-life of about 2 years if stored cool and dark. It melts at a temperature of 35-40 degrees celsius.

Chemical profile:

  • Oleic acid, 40-45%
  • Stearic acid 30-45%
  • Linoleic acid 3-9%
  • Palmitic acid 3-5%

RANDOM FACTS ABOUT ESSENTIAL OIL

Picture from: http://www.sustainablescoop.com

Quite often people comment on the price of essential oils, they find them expensive. The size of the bottles may be small, but what is in there is an astonishing amount when considering below facts. When they are pure, unadulterated and therapeutic grade essential oils, they most definitely are a gift from nature. Then consider that some oils are from wild plants; they are not grown in perfect, easily accessible rows, but scattered over a large area – more often than not making cutting by hand obligatory. Some oils, such as Melissa and Rose require huge amounts of plant-matter, further explaining the high prices of these oils. You get what you pay for.

 

Obtaining 1kg of its essential oil requires:
- 7 kg of dried buds of cloves (Eugenia caryophyllus)
- 50 kg of lavandin (Lavandula burnati)
- 150 kg of true lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)
- 1 ton of immortelle (Helichrysum italicum)
- 4 tons of petal of Damascus rose (Rosa damascena)
- 5 to 10 tons of Melissa (Melissa officinalis)

ANIMAL INGREDIENTS IN SKIN CARE

I have written earlier about pig-fat in skin-care, also about mineral oil. Nowadays ingredients should always be labeled on the package, but this is not always the case. Of course, cheap ingredients – such as animal fats and mineral oil – are attractive to manufacturers as they give a larger profit / keeps the price down.  Alternatively, some ingredients from the animal kingdom can increase the price as these are the “unique specials” in the product. Here are some materials that can be found in skin-care – especially for aging skin.

  • Bovine colostrum: This is the first milk produced by mammals during late pregnancy, it is high in antibodies and proteins to protect the newborn baby. Bovine colostrum comes from cows.  Most calves are separated from their mothers at birth and are then fed the colostrum by bottle, the rest is used for other purposes.
  • Placenta: Proteins from the placenta is used in skin care products for aging skin; it is and are supposed to hydrate and tone the skin.
  • Sperm: Crystals are extracted from sperm and is said to be more active than vit. E to keep the skin healthy.
  • Allantoin: Is found in the urine from cows and mammals. It increases smoothness in the skin, is cell-regenerating and wound-healing. Natural allantoin can be found in Comfrey root (Symphytum officinale).
  • Hyaluronic acid: Is found in the umbilical cord and fluids around the joints; it is a protein that is used as an anti-wrinkle agent. Hyaluronic acid is also used as an injectable filler (Restylane & Juvederm)
  • Mink oil: Comes from the thick, fatty layer under the skin of the mink. The fat is removed from the pelt and made into oil. It is high in palmitoleic acid. Palmitoleic acid is present in humans but diminishes with age. Natural palmitoleic acid is found in Macadamia oil (Macadamia ternifolia) and Sea Buckthorn oil (Hippophae rhamnoides).

Then, of course, there are all the “flashy” stuff in high-end, ridiculously expensive creams: Caviar, Snake venom peptide, Oyster… But I’m not going there today.

MAY CHANG

Time for a profile again; this is a wonderful, versatile oil with a lovely scent. It’s attractive to most people and one of those scents that is always appreciated when it comes to scenting spaces.

May Chang, Litsea (Litsea cubeba). Synonyms: tropical verbena, yunnan verveine. These names are a bit misleading, since it is not at all related to Lemon verbena (Aloysia triphylla). It belongs to the same family as the rosewood and cinnamon tree. Litsea is a small tropical tree with lemony-scented leaves and flowers. It produces little fruits shaped like peppers which gives the name cubeba. The tree is native to Asia, especially China where it is often planted as a wind breaker. China is the main producer, but it is also cultivated  in Taiwan and Japan. The oil was introduced to the West as late as in the mid-fifties.

The oil is steam-distilled from the fruits, the yield is high – the fruits contain 3-5% essential oil. On Java, Indonesia, small quantities of oil is distilled from the leaves, though it is considered inferior since there is less citral in it. (I would love to get my hands on some of that oil, since, in aromatherapy, we are not looking at isolation but rather wholeness, it would have different therapeutic properties ) The main component of the fruit-oil is citral, up to 85%. The scent of Litsea is sweet-lemony, fresh and fruity. It is reminiscent of lemongrass but lighter and sweeter without the sharpness and tenacity of lemongrass.

The major use of the oil is for the isolation of citral which is used for flavor and fragrance. The chemical industry uses it as a raw material for the synthesis of vitamin A and also converts it into a violet-like scent. International standards set the minimum citral-content at 74% for Litsea, the same as for Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) and both these oils are described in trade terms as “75 percent”.

Traditional uses in China are: indigestion, lower back pain, chills, headaches and travel sickness.

Essential oil of Litsea cubeba is anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory, antidepressant, carminative, sedative and calming. It is also used as an insect-repellent, though I find Citronella (Cymbogogon nardus) to be more efficient.

USES:

  • SKIN: Its antimicrobial properties make it excellent for oily skin and acne. It is astringent and gently cooling on the skin and makes a good tonic.
  • RESPIRATORY: Tonic. Has been used as a broncho-dilator and may be helpful with bronchitis and asthma. (In the case of asthma, I believe part of its usefulness is the calming and relaxing effect of the oil.)
  • HEART: Tonic to the heart; much research is being done in China on disease-prevention and cure of heart-problems. Recent research has shown Litsea’s ability to reduce arrhythmias in comparison with propranolol, a beta-blocker, antihypertensive and anti-angina drug. (Zhong Xi Yi Jie He Za Zhi. 1991 Aug;11(8):509-12.) Personal note: This ability might be of great help in stress-relief, especially when stress causes irregular heart-beat.
  • DIGESTIVE: Flatulence, indigestion and poor appetite.
  • NERVOUS SYSTEM: Calming and antidepressant. Useful for nervousness and depression as the oil is softly uplifting and strengthening (tonic). Use it together with Lavender (Lavandula augustifolia) and/or Roman Chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile) for sleeping disorders. This blend is deeply relaxing.

More: As a sanitary air-freshener when there is disease. Brilliant to use during those months of the year when colds and flu’s set in.

Personal experience: I have found Litsea to be one of the few oils that most everybody likes. I have used it successfully on clients with racing heart-problems from stress and for people suffering from anorexia.

Litsea can cause sensitisation in some individuals. Do not use neat on skin.

 

MINERAL OIL

One of the most controversial substances in skin-care is mineral oil. Mineral oil is derived from the petroleum industry, it is one of many substances derived from crude oil that is pumped up from the bowels of the earth. Crude oil is, by definition, a natural product since it is created by the earth itself as opposed to man-made, it is even an organic product…crude oil, that is. (See earlier posts on natural substances under skin-care)

Crude oil in its natural state can’t be used so it is refined by chemical and physical processes. By fractionating the crude oil with different temperatures a variety of substances are obtained:

  • 25-100 degrees celsius; propane and gasoline
  • 100-180 degrees celsius; heavy gasoline
  • 160-250 degrees celsius; paraffin
  • 220-350 degrees celsius; diesel
  • 360-400 degrees celsius; heating oil and lubricating oil
  • >400 degrees celsius; asphalt, tar and paraffin oil

From the paraffin oil other substances are derived such as: paraffin oil, paraffin, paraffin-wax in different levels of firmness; vaseline is a half-firm paraffin-wax. Other products that originates from some of these fractions are: plastic, solvents, emulsifiers, medicine, cloth, aromatic substances for food and perfume and much more.

(this information is taken from the book “Guldet från växterna” by Finn Andersen.)

Many now banned substances in skin-care come from the petroleum-industry and have been found to be hazardous to humans. Everybody agrees that they should be banned and laws have been passed to give more insight in what goes into skin-care. (see earlier posts under skin-care) But the controversial mineral oil ( vaseline, paraffine) is still on the market… There are 2 schools of thought; pro and anti:

PRO mineral oil:

  • Cheap (about 1 us dollar/kg)
  • Stable – will not go bad…ever…
  • Protective layer
  • Inert
  • Lubricating

ANTI mineral oil:

  • Our bodies do not recognize it
  • Clog the pores
  • Stops skin-breathing and hinders elimination of waste-products through skin
  • Diminishes natural sebum-production in skin


There is research that show negative effects of mineral oil. see here and here There is also research showing it to be non-toxic at normal doses for most people. When a substance is so easily acquired (goes automatically when fractionating all the other stuff) at such a low cost, never goes bad and can do thousands of different things…I do not trust the pro that much…of course industry wants to keep this very versatile product on the market… It’s all about the money.

Mineral oil is used widely as a laxative and there have been reports of negative side-effects. Castor oil (Ricinus communis) is a much better alternative; affordable, natural and works with the body.

And the oilspills? Nature dies, people get sick… For more info on health hazards from crude oil look here, where it actually says:

“Although a variety of hydrocarbon products produced from petroleum have specific toxic effects, the toxicity of crude light petroleum itself to humans is relatively low. (Stellman 2007) This may be due, in part, to the lower concentrations of individual fractions in crude oil as compared to the higher concentrations expected in refined products.”


Personal experience:

Vaseline once had a publicity stating; “softer skin in 8 days or your money back“. There is no problem making this statement; vaseline (mineral oils) will give you softer skin in 8 days. The problem is that skin-conditions cannot change that fast, it is only a cosmetic and superficial change; it takes 28 days for a new-born skin-cell to reach the surface, and only then will you see any kind of result.

I never ever use mineral oils for skin-care or lip-balm or anything to do with my skin-health. I refused all store-bought baby-products for my children because of the mineral-oil which is used in almost all baby-products.

I have used vaseline in other ways with brilliant results…it’s like liquid plastic and it keeps the area soft:

  • Horses: For mudfever (I think it’s called in English) when the leg above the hoof gets infected because of humidity. The condition is not easily treated and can turn very serious. I mix essential oil and other active substances in vaseline. The vaseline works as an efficient protector against humidity and the active substances are released into the wound (skin).
  • Necrosis; where infection eats away the skin and creates craters. To ensure healing from within the crater I stuff compresses with essential oil and vaseline in the wound before dressing it. The vaseline stops the compress from getting stuck in the wound and the active substances work their healing on a deep level in the crater. Without the compress in the crater, risk is superficial healing in the top skin-layers, leaving bacteria to grow beneath.

At the end of the day; do we want to use something that comes from such a horrible industry; 1)it is non-renewable and nobody knows what happens to the planet when we empty her bowels. 2) Look what it does to nature when there are spills. This alone is enough for me to choose other options, even if they may be costlier.

PIG FATS IN YOUR COSMETIC AND HAIR-CARE PRODUCTS

The slaughter industry has a big problem to get rid of the
large amount of pig fat they amass in their slaughter
houses. They try to sell this off in many disguises and they
don’t need by law to declare where it comes from.
According to Richard Lutwyche, a British pig farmer, ‘In the UK, big commercial
farms send their pigs to large abattoirs. The abattoir will find different markets for
all the by-products,’ he says. ‘Everything they can’t sell they have to incinerate, so
it’s in their best interest to sell as much as they can.’
A pig can be used in up to 185 products such as ice cream, whipped cream,
sweets and paint. Parts of the pig are also used in liquid shampoos and liquid
soaps. Detergents in these products are sold in most high street shops as it
makes a cheap shampoo base. Fatty acids from bone fat are also used to give
them a pearl-like appearance.
In solid soaps, detergents for cheap bars of soap are made from animal fats such
as pig fats and fatty acids from the bone fat act as a hardening agent and give it
colour.
Most glycerine moisturisers also contain fatty acids from bone fat as they make a
cheap moisturiser. Generally, if you buy a high street brand of cosmetic with glycerine
in, it will most likely be cheap pig fat glycerine. Also, parts of the pig are
used in face masks along with collagen to help reduce wrinkles and lines.
Information taken from the Daily Mail Saturday 3rd October 2009 & Kolbjorn Borseth.